Left for Bangkok airport still not feeling the best. Arrived at the airport quite early and where almost thrown out the taxi by the driver – we subsequently noticed a fellow wandering up and down the taxi rank with a loudspeaker roaring at taxi drivers who were dallying.

Had a quick drink then lined up to book in with Bangkok Airways. All went quite smoothly, although security was very strict – I had to take off my belt for the first time in the trip. The amount of shopping airside at the new Bangkok airport is staggering, it streches for miles. In stark contrast to the packed feel in the areas before checkin, with very limited eating and drinking outlets.

Bangkok Airways has a small lounge for all passengers which allowed us to grab fifteen minutes  internet, a drink and a couple of little snacks.

Got to the plane and we had the shock of our lives. It was so… little, and… propellor driven. The ATR 72 probably sat 50 or 60 but amongst the Boeings and Airbuses it seemed tiny and, as it was my first flight on a turbo-prop I was a little concerned. Flight was actually quite pleasant after a bumpy takeoff, with brilliant views of flat Thailand and then, increasingly mountainous Laos.

Nonetheless, it was a great relief when we arrived in Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang ’s airport was tiny and we entered a customs area with brown timber partitons straight out of the fifties. An amazing contrast to the space age Bangkok Airport. USD$30 dollars later we had our visas and were out of the airport. Taxi to town cost a standardised USD$5.

Luang Prabang is a little town on a peninsular at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and was the royal capital of Laos and was the politcal and religious center of the country. Surrounded by towering mountains and majestic rivers it really is marvelous location. It still contains over 30 Buddhist wats, alongside some beautifully preserved French colonial buildings, particularly the main streets which are lined with wonderfully renovated shophouses.

Did very little that evening apart from having dinner at a restaurant very close to our hotel, the 3 Nagas. After the tropical heat of the past few weeks it was a surprise to see little charchol burners below each table, but after we had been sitting for a while we appreciated the extra warmth as it is quite a few degrees colder in evenings at this altitude.

The meal was very pricey by local standards but we tried a  local delicacy – khai paen – fried Mekong riverweed with sesame and served with a spicey jao bong (buffalo skin jam). The spice of the condiment (which just tasted like a chilli jam) took away the fishy taste of the riverweed, which on its own tasted like nori on steroids. The rest of the meal was more prosaic: some delightful spring rolls, grilled pork chops for Ally and steamed fish in banana leaves for me, accompanied by the culinary symbol of Laos, sticky rice. Our waiter was wonderful and it was lovely introduction to Laos.

It was good to be somewhere quieter than Bangkok, and Luang Prabang was certainly charming.

Bangkok to Luang Prabang