Posts Tagged ‘Angkor Wat’

Dollarmites, Tuk Tuks and Overheard Comments

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After our adventures in Thailand we have a little time to reflect on our  experiences in Cambodia.

Siem Reap is an amazing town.  For all the tourists that go through there, the people, for the most part, are happy, friendly and helpful.  They are quick with a smile and will go out of their way to point you in the right direction.  The tuk tuk drivers will generally leave you alone after your first ‘No’ to the inevitable “Tuk Tuk Ladee?” and most are willing to have a chat if you have the time to stop.

We nicknamed the kids that come up to you selling souviners “Dollarmites” as everything is $1.  “One dollar ladee” is a common cry everywhere you go.  They sell everything from postcards to flutes and scarves.  Even they are happy to have a chat if there are not too many other tourists around.  They really are wonderful children and it’s sad to see that they have to go out to tout so they can suppliment the family income.

We stayed at the Sala Bai hotel which is a school for disadvantaged kids to learn about the hospitality industry.  The criteria is that they must be between the ages of 17 and 23 and their family income must be under $25 US per month.  These kids work really hard and always have a smile on their faces.  They were very helpful to us and no request was too hard.  We were very sorry to leave there.

The temples are many and simply amazing.  I was awestruck with each one that we went to.  The amount of work and art that has gone into each one is stunning.  It was also fun to just listen to the comments of the other tourists around us.  The most memorable of which was overheard by Greg  – “The temples are nice, but they do go on about them” – said by an American about his guide but another, just as memorable – “Everything in this country costs one dollar…except this” – said in response to the cost of the boat ride on Tonle Sap (we did not end up doing this).  I’m not too sure why an Angkor guide would be going on about Angkorian temples but there you go.

On to Phnom Penh where the dollarmites are a little more aggressive, Adam was told to ‘F off’ by one of them after he repeatedly said no to buying books, but still not too bad.  We stayed at FCC which is very nice.  It’s a bigger budget hotel than Sala Bai and was really comfortable right across the street from the river.  The staff were a little standoffish but that was probably to be expected, after all, it is a bigger hotel.

Just about all of us got sick or had just been sick by the time we got to Phnom Penh.  It slowed us down but didn’t stop us.  We went to the very very horrifying Killing Fields where the Khemer Rouge took people to be killed.  Apparently because it started as a Chinese cemetry they thought the smell would not be noticed so much.  Pity they didn’t think that the sheer amount of people they put to death would be noticed too much.

Our wonderful driver Dara, of whom Adam will post later, then decided that the Russian market would cheer us up a bit.  He was right.  What a crazy place.  It’s big and very very compact.  We wandered around there for a couple of hours before getting back into the car and off to the S21 museum.  This place used to be a school before the Khmer Rouge took it over as a prison.  The thought of the thousands of people that were kept prisoner within those walls is sickening.  Particularlly when most were then sent on to the killing fields for their final day or two.  The pictures on the walls were very graphic and literally made me sick to my stomach.  For some reason the Khmer Rouge were meticulous record keepers and there are rooms and rooms filled with the photos of just about every person who went through the S21 prison.  It’s a horrible past and one that the Cambodian people, rightfully I think, remember to ensure it never happens again in the future.

After that we were back to the hotel.  With Jo not feeling the best Adam and I set off for a wander up to the new night market.  We were a bit disappointed as it looked almost exactly like any market at home.  We wandered back down the street and stopped for a drink and some banana and honey pancakes.  YUM!

The next day was my turn to not be feeling on top of the world.  We had planned to go to the Royal Palace but I was just not up to it.  I was feeling particularly as it was our last day with Jo and Greg.  Greg and Adam tried to go and take some photos from the outside of the Grand Palace but were shooed away as there was some African delegation visiting.  As a result we lounged around in the hotel until Jo and Greg left for Bangkok.

Feeling a little better in the afternoon, Adam and I went to see the Palace, which was a lovely place, and then to a resturant called Friends which is also a school, this time for street kids.  The food was good and the service friendly.

Next day was our turn to be leaving.  We really loved Cambodia and are already talking about our next trip there.  It was surpising just how lovely the people are and how friendly.  I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for their next holiday.  It’s a country full of contrasts from the extreme poverty and ancient temples to the new building that is happening all around and the seemingly rich tourists that come to climb all over their national treasures.

Wat a wonderful place!!!!!

Day 5 – Second Day of Angkorian Temples

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Angkor Day 2

Making Merit While the Sun Shines

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We began the day early with a quick breakfast at Sala Bai. Met Semchey and our driver for another day of temples.

On the way to our first temple Jo and Greg wanted to stop off at a Buddhist temple to make merit. While Ally and I only intended to take photos, we found ourselves all involved in the ceremony! We then stopped off at a small shack by the side of the road where they were cooking palm sugar in large cooking pots – delicous and smokey fresh from the molds we bought three cylinders in palm wrapping for USD1$ while the local kids posed for photos.

We finished off the other major temples around Siem Reap – Bantey Srei, Pre-Rup, Ta Phrom and Phnom Bakeng for sunset.

Bantey Srei is the most beautifully carved of all the temples around Siem Reap built of a rich red colour of the stone which is just gorgeous.

Pre-Rup was one of the unexpected favorites – the views from the top level are just indescribable!

Ta Phrom, the ‘Angelina Jolie temple’ that featured in the Tomb Raider movie was perhaps a little disappointing. The way the trees have become intertwined with the temple is amazing, but the walkways and large numbers of visitors rather wrecks the Indiana Jones illusion.

Phnom Bakeng is the spot EVERYBODY goes for sunset. Ally was feeling very fatigued and didn’t make it up the three flights of stairs to the top of the temple. I was a little disappointed, because although Angkor can be seen the sunset is actually on the other side of the mountain. Samchey found us a great spot for viewing the sunset, but I was very tired from the two days and, although it was very beautiful, it wasn’t as breathtaking as I had hoped.

Day 4 – Angkor in Pictures

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Angkor Day 1

Sanchey Rocks Angkor

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The day started brightly with a delicous breakfast at Sala Bai – I had Bor Bor chicken porridge a rice porridge with an egg, slivers of chicken which was salty and moreish. Ally chose a baguette, Jo a crossante and a bowl of fruit and Greg settled for a ‘big breakfast’ of eggs, bacon and so-on.

During breakfast we were informed by the hotel that the guide we had booked the day before required some form of transport to take us around. Feeling slightly embarassed at our mistake we hurredly organised a van and within half an hour it was ready to take us to Angkor!

The minvan was a great relief between temples and our driver steered us through the sheer chaos of the Cambodian streets with aplomb. Our guide, Sanchey, was the most knowledgable and personable guide we could have hoped for. A university educated, former schoolteacher he speaks excellent English, came prepared with a bag full of maps and illustrations and proved absolutely invaluable in leading us around the mammoth temple complex. Where our first day in Cambodia as we tried to find our way around was a bit of a farce, the second was everything we could have hoped for.

Our first destination was Angkor Thom, the former capital of the Khmer empire. From the imposing South Gate we were taken up to Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants. We wandered to the former royal temple of Phimeanakas, which I regretted climing once I saw the view down -  and, lastly and most spectacularly, the Bayon – the temple covered with the serene smile of King Jayavaraman VII.

Finally, we drove five minutes down the road to the big one, Angkor Wat. Wow! So richly and intracately carved, although it was simply swamped with tourists! Apparently tourist numbers are way down this year in Cambodia, but Angkor Wat still seemed like a sea of people.

I really can’t describe the beauty of the temples we saw on the first day – the sheer scale, the quality of the carving, the completeness of the temples, despite their age really amazed me, despite all the reading I did before arriving.

I really won’t try to describe the temples, rather I will post some of the photos we took. My hopes were so high that I had steeled myself for certain dissapointment, but I think they are amongst the most spectacular things I have ever seen. They are awe-inspiring, cryptic, beautifully preserved and so heavily concentrated in such a small area around Siem Reap.

Planning a Trip to Angkor – Resources and Links

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Here is an intial list of some of the best planning resources we’ve found for planning a trip to explore the Khmer monuments around Angkor.

Travelfish – Best resources for budget travel or backpacking in Southeast Aisa. Period.

Canby Publications – An excellent Resources for all things Cambodian; their Angkor guide and maps are exhaustive.

Apsara Authority – The authority responsible for conserving the temples of Angkor.

Siem Reap Insider – On the ground blog from the Phnom Penh Post about happenings in and around the Angkor complex.

Tales of Asia – Lots of information but not the easiest site to navigate. Forum contains an up-to-date guide to Pub Street.

The crowds awaiting sunset at Phnom Bakang (fortes)

Sala Bai Hotel and Restaurant School – A hotel school in Siem Reap which trains 100 young disadvantaged Cambodians for free each year as waiters/waitresses, cooks, receptionists & housekeeping attendants. Bargain rooms for a great cause!

Paul Dubrule Ecole d’Hôtellerie et de Tourisme – Another hotel school in Siem Reap, founded by the co-founder of the Accor Hotel Group.

National Geographic – 2009 feature on Angkor including a photo gallery, and plenty of interesting detail about the temples.

The Monuments of the Angkor Group (Maurice Glaize, 1944) – Free translation of one of the most comprehensive guides to the Angkor group.

Ancient Angkor Guide – Good for brief introductions to the major temples and sites.

Angkor: The Tour (Nick Ray, The Sunday Times 2004) – Four day Angkor itinerary.

36 Hours in Siem Reap (Naomi Lindt, New York Times, 2008) – Contains some interesting suggestions.

Finding The Best Tour Guide (New York Times Intransit Blog (March, 2009)

Holiday in Angkor Wat – Quite a lot of very useful practical information.

Cambodia Pocket Guide – Free magazines for visitors to Siem Reap available online. Occaisional article of interest.

Phenomenon – Blog about Cambodian cuisine.

Angkor – Youtube Documentaries

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Some Angkor-related documentaries I’ve found on Youtube which are a great introduction for anyone beginning to plan a trip; they give an idea of the size, scale and numbor of temples in Cambodia as well as the fascinating and still little understood classical Khmer civilization responsible for the awe-inspiring monuments.

Mysteries of Asia: Jewels in the Jungle


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Our Trip!

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View Ally and Adam SE Asia ’09 in a larger map

Four weeks over November and December 2009 to:

  • Jakarta
  • Kuala Lumpur
  • Siem Reap (Angkor)
  • Phnom Penh
  • Bangkok
  • Luang Prabang
  • Nong Kiaow
  • Vang Vieng
  • Vientiane