Posts Tagged ‘3 Nagas’

Luang Prabang….Ahhh, pretty!!

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We arrived at Luang Prabang airport on the smallest plane in the world…at least it seemed that way until we saw the smaller plane that Lao airlines were flying from Vientiane to Luange Prabang when we landed.  We flew Bangkok Air which is a serviceable enough airline.  Being a ATR70 (that’s code for IT HAD PROPELLERS!!!!) it was only a small service.  A pleasant two hour flight and we had left the horrors of Bangkok behind us and arrived in  lovely Luang Prabang.

We then had to line up to purchase our visas.  This took about half an hour as there was a long line of people and only one person taking money and writing out the visa.  Once the visas were obtained and duly admired we then had to line up for passport control.  This also took a little while as there were two men – one to look at the passport and one to stamp it.  By this time our bags were the last on the conveyor belt.  Someone had obviously gotten tired of watching them go around so we found them dumped on the floor.  Fair enough I guess, there were only around 40 passengers+ luggage to get through and we were the last ones in the line.

Anyway, once we were through the airport we got a taxi to take us to our hotel, Lotus Villa, which was very nice with a comfortable bed, hot shower and a balcony out the front from which we could watch the procession of monks each morning.

The alms giving each morning is a time honoured tradition in which, usually, housewives give rice to the monks as they pass by each morning, ensuring that the monks have breakfast and that the housewives make “merit” each day.  It is facinating to watch.  Unfortuantely it is at 6am! There are signs all around the town asking that visitors to the area respect the custom and stand a small distance away to watch and to not point flashing cameras into the monks faces. It was a nice thing to watch first thing in the morning.

Adam was not feeling at all well by the time we arrived at the hotel, so we stayed indoors for a few hours so he could get to rest. We went out in search of dinner and found a resturant just around the corner from our hotel, The 3 Nagas, where we dined on Mekong river weed and buffalo skin amongst other delights. It cost a bit more than we were expecting but was a very satisfying dinner for our introduction into Luang Prabang eating.

The next day we were up early to watch the monks on their morning trail before breakfast. With Adam feeling better we set off to explore. There really isn’t a lot of Luang Prabang, but there is a lot to see. Walking down the main road we dropping into the Grand Palace for a look. It’s not nearly as big as the one in Phnom Penh or as shiny as the one in Bangkok. It has been made into a museum of the old Royal Family. It was nice and interesting. Not really and WOW moments, although they did have a very impressive mosaic on the walls of the throne room, much like Wat Xieng Thong. After the palace we walked into the wat on the main street. It wasn’t as spectacular as some of the wats we have seen, but still very nice.

We really didn’t do a lot other than walk and eat for the rest of the day. Luang Prabang is really just one of those places where you can get a lot out of it just be taking it easy. There are things to do, the Pak Ou Caves, the waterfalls, elephant riding, trekking, kayaking….the list can go on, but you can have just as much fun sitting in one of the cafes and watching the world go by. There is such a huge diversity of people to watch there.

We spent three lovely days there before we were off to Nong Khiaw…..by boat! This was a 6 hour boat ride which deserves a blog post all of it’s very own so I will leave things here and pick it up again shortly…………..

Four Engines Good, Two Engines Bad

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Left for Bangkok airport still not feeling the best. Arrived at the airport quite early and where almost thrown out the taxi by the driver – we subsequently noticed a fellow wandering up and down the taxi rank with a loudspeaker roaring at taxi drivers who were dallying.

Had a quick drink then lined up to book in with Bangkok Airways. All went quite smoothly, although security was very strict – I had to take off my belt for the first time in the trip. The amount of shopping airside at the new Bangkok airport is staggering, it streches for miles. In stark contrast to the packed feel in the areas before checkin, with very limited eating and drinking outlets.

Bangkok Airways has a small lounge for all passengers which allowed us to grab fifteen minutes  internet, a drink and a couple of little snacks.

Got to the plane and we had the shock of our lives. It was so… little, and… propellor driven. The ATR 72 probably sat 50 or 60 but amongst the Boeings and Airbuses it seemed tiny and, as it was my first flight on a turbo-prop I was a little concerned. Flight was actually quite pleasant after a bumpy takeoff, with brilliant views of flat Thailand and then, increasingly mountainous Laos.

Nonetheless, it was a great relief when we arrived in Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang ’s airport was tiny and we entered a customs area with brown timber partitons straight out of the fifties. An amazing contrast to the space age Bangkok Airport. USD$30 dollars later we had our visas and were out of the airport. Taxi to town cost a standardised USD$5.

Luang Prabang is a little town on a peninsular at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and was the royal capital of Laos and was the politcal and religious center of the country. Surrounded by towering mountains and majestic rivers it really is marvelous location. It still contains over 30 Buddhist wats, alongside some beautifully preserved French colonial buildings, particularly the main streets which are lined with wonderfully renovated shophouses.

Did very little that evening apart from having dinner at a restaurant very close to our hotel, the 3 Nagas. After the tropical heat of the past few weeks it was a surprise to see little charchol burners below each table, but after we had been sitting for a while we appreciated the extra warmth as it is quite a few degrees colder in evenings at this altitude.

The meal was very pricey by local standards but we tried a  local delicacy – khai paen – fried Mekong riverweed with sesame and served with a spicey jao bong (buffalo skin jam). The spice of the condiment (which just tasted like a chilli jam) took away the fishy taste of the riverweed, which on its own tasted like nori on steroids. The rest of the meal was more prosaic: some delightful spring rolls, grilled pork chops for Ally and steamed fish in banana leaves for me, accompanied by the culinary symbol of Laos, sticky rice. Our waiter was wonderful and it was lovely introduction to Laos.

It was good to be somewhere quieter than Bangkok, and Luang Prabang was certainly charming.

Bangkok to Luang Prabang